Cambio

Getting change in Buenos Aires seems to be a constant battle. One feels a massive sense of pride and accomplishment simply by breaking a large bill into smaller bills. Should you manage to acquire change in coins you are a lucky man, a rich man. Honestly, its bizarre, but true. 

The buses (collectivos) are convenient and cheap. They run 24hrs/day and with a bit of grid studying one can navigate the entire city and its surrounding suburbs. Best of all each ride costs a mere 1.20 pesos (about 30 cents). The issue is buying a ticket (bolleto). Upon entrance, you tell the driver your destination, he punches a button which highlights the amount to pay. The ticket machine is behind the driver. Enter your change and take your ticket. Pretty straight forward. Except when you don't have change. In that case you stand around like a fool and dig into the depths of your empty pockets. Man purse? Rifle through the change pocket. Empty? Pull out a 2 peso bill and ask sheepishly for change. "Monedas, por favor?" Silence. Lesson learned: don't enter a bus without change. 

Fine, get coins for the next time. Its a constant the world-round: virtually every convenient store and restaurant are reluctant to give change. As a result, I find myself repeatedly buying packs of gum, M&Ms, empanadas or unneeded jolts of coffee simply to find coins for the bus. Its not much of a complaint as I'm left wide awake, with a full belly and minty fresh breathe.

However, try to pay with anything larger than a 20 peso note and the proprietor will exhale in frustration and ask if you have something more 'chico.' Its really a vicious circle as the banks primarily dispense 100 peso bills. Now chances are if you've just come from the bank you're sporting a pocket full of 100's and feel flush. Ironically, those are the moments when I feel most destitute. 

Regardless, there you are belly full, breathe minty and pockets jingling. You've figured out which bus to take by deciphering BA's bible, the GUIA T. You deserve a high-five. You've conquered the bus.

What about a taxi? Its more expensive and more convenient. Obviously. However, on a comparative level to any other major city in the world, BsAs taxi's are super cheap. A 15 minute cross town buzz will cost about 15 pesos ($4). Layup. Cheaper than HK! Compared to Tokyo, they are in different stratosphere. A similar distance in TKY would easily run upwards of $30. My lord, with that type of money you can eat like a King in BA (big 'ol juicy Argentine steak and a couple bottles of vino tinto). 

Just remember, don't enter a taxi in BA without small bills. I've done this on a number of occasions and each resulted in the driver getting visibly angry. Granted, I'm sure they are repeatedly getting hit up for change, but if anything that motivation to carry more, not less. Regardless, its 50-50 they will offer you change. If they do, they'll be as slow as possible in the hopes you'll leave from impatience. If they don't, they'll likely ask you to go and get some. 

"Seriously!? But I'm not hungry. I've already had 18 empanadas today and my murse is filled with 6 packs of gum."

I finally stood up to my last driver. I kindly explained I didn't have a smaller bill than 100 pesos as I'd absent mindedly spent my last 10 moments before entering the cab. He was non-too-pleased. He told me to go to the supermarcado, but I refused. I could see he had change in his hands. He had pulled out his wad expecting I'd pay from a 20. "The supermarcado will force me to buy something I don't need and you have adequate change." I could hear the circuits breaking inside his skull. He'd had enough and told me to get out. "Just get out."

I apologized and exited the taxi. However, for the second time in three days, I found myself confused over the most basic exchanges of money and expelled for standing my ground as a paying customer. Why would he forfeit fare to avoid giving change? I'm sure its deep rooted, but for an newcomer its simply strange. The largest bill is 100 pesos. Banks dispense virtually only 100s. Small shops and taxis are reluctant to accept such notes and even more reluctant to give up any of their heavy change. Its bizarre that coins are more coveted than bills. Penny rich and pound foolish.