Recoleta Cemetery

Recoleta Cemetery really is worth a visit. Its nestled in the midst of Buenos Aires' most prestigious neighbourhood of Recoleta. A tall concrete wall encircles the quad's perimeter. Within those walls, Argentina's most influential are lay to rest. The social exclusivity is striking, yet appropriate, as nearly each individual was venerated like an idol while alive and thus while dead. 

Cemeteries can make some feel uneasy, but to me they are mostly peaceful. Often they are quiet and tranquil locations and I find myself calm and reflective. Recoleta's layout makes for an ideal stroll and the weather today was perfect: late afternoon sunshine with a clear blue back drop. 

I found myself taking a heap of pictures of the Neo-Gothic mausoleums. Aged stone white crosses lay stark in front of the sky's blue. Stray cats lingered about and perched themselves on top of certain tombs. Stained glass beamed from the inside out. 

A few pictures to get an idea.

Dream job for slack-jawed interweb jockey (Buenos Aires)

On my first jaunt to Craigslist I came across an interesting job. Figured I'd share both it and my application.

Dream job for slack-jawed interweb jockey (Buenos Aires)

NEEDED: obsessive social networking stalker/soft porn enthusiast for contract research job. Must have an easy facility with all social networking sites and basic blogging/website building skills. An affinity for slutty absurdist images is a requirement. 

So, if you have some time on your hands, a snarky sense of humor and always thought it would be cool to get paid for looking at hot girls on the Internet, send us a resume and a quick note. 

Work at home - moderate pay - must have own computer and fast Internet connection. 

My Application:

I introduced Rick James to savvy and Ferris Bueller to slacking. Those are merely two examples of my excellent abilities. I warn you, I have mad skills. I've also been known to enjoy soft core smut, especially from the '70's (high gloss print and untamed bush). 

I digress. 

I'm pretty excellent. Incredibly motivated. Extremely competent in most subjects containing the letters a,e,i,o,u and sometimes y, but only sometimes.

i blog. it is only moderately inappropriate. 

oh, I also have a moustache. its more or less brilliant. 

what have you got going on?

-scott

Granma, please don't watch this...

** Warning: the following content is both shocking and inappropriate. Perhaps best to skip to the next posting. **

I was at a dinner party last night. Rolling sushi and meeting new people in BA. Music was being played from a laptop. I put on a new music video that the room hadn't seen. Cool. Normal stuff. Another guy followed up with a VBS (Vice TV) link. I was shocked. I felt I should share this.

Apparently along the northern coast of Columbia some men have their first sexual encounter with a donkey. During puberty the doctors prescribe it. They claim it helps develop size. It has morphed into an accepted ritualistic right of passage.

B.S., right!? Nope. If you are of the I'll only believe it if I see it camp, then click on the link. Unbelievable. 

"its just a different way of seeing sex, a different way of looking at it..."

- what? excuse me? no. no, thats definitely not correct.

** I took the above picture in Palermo, BA. Donkey graffiti. Seemed relevant. **

Distinguished

I feel distinguished. Simultaneously: Reputable, Classy & Strong.

Its humbling what a handlebar moustache does for a man's honour and ego. I am unassailable. 

"You will 'Shhhh' when I speak."

Take notice of the fine cultivation. Observe the freedom around the edges hinting at great exploration. Stoic. Unfettered by the noise of emotion. Steadfast in stride.

Most stare in astonished admiration. They are intrigued by the shear manliness of man. 

The unconverted quickly quib amongst themselves, "Creepy." 

Yes, creepy indeed. Quit starring. Its okay to touch, to play. Come a little closer. You are simply stumped by an ignorance. Its natural. Let yourself be hoisted to magnificent heights by the tantalizing Moustache Ride. 

One day my fair dame, one day. 

Toby:

steak.

steak.

i am going to make one.

i will come back and know how to say that en espanol. 

maybe.

-sbb

Torres del Paine

I spent 4 days and 3 nights camping through Torres del Paine National Park in Chile's southern Patagonia. I've trekked a vast array of scenic scapes over the years, but was particularly taken by these four days.

First of all, its currently the tail end of winter down here and the trails were empty. Quite honestly, sparse. I saw a grand total of 8 other pairs meandering the famous 'W' hike; 5 of those pairs arrived on our last night. Thus, I passed by 3 other pairs over the first 3 days of hiking. Praise be for 'off-season' travel. 

Was shuttled up to the park from the very small port town of Puerto Natales; essentially, just the stepping stone into the park. Arrived at the gates at 9am, paid admission and was instructed that fires were strictly prohibited after a Czech camper accidentally burned down 10% of the forest to the ground after his small camping stove tipped over and ignited the tinder.  Opps! The evidence of charred stumps could be spotted along the trails edge; however, by no means did it detract from the vistas. To be honest, if anything, the blackened tree trunks added to the gnarly, barren space of Torres del Pain.

The first day started with a crisp sun and winter chill. Made for great hiking weather. Arrived at the campsite, dropped off my pack and pitched the tent before setting off for the Torres Base. I was keen to make the 2hr hike up to the mirador before the afternoon fog came in. I successfully failed. Winds began to howl and snow started to dust the top section of the trail. Made for a fun scramble up the skree face, but could only see the outlines of massive peaks from the look out. The three Towers of Pain, in all their glory, appeared as shadows of themselves. I was still impressed. 

Froze my nards off through the night. Was rented a summer tent with mesh vents at the base of all four corners. The fly was no cover for the night wind. Woke up to 2" of fresh snow outside the tent after that first night. I'm officially counting it as a winter camping trip.

The second day will remain with me for a long while. Hiked from Campo Chileno all the way to Refugio Pehoe (about 25km). I realize that means virtually nothing if you've never been there, but its essentially the top right of the 'W' to the bottom left; if that makes sense. Most of the day was spent traversing along the upper shore of Lago Nordenskjol, a long moraine green mountain lake. Once again, fierce winds started howling at midday. The breeze was surprisingly warm, but violent in strength. Twisters danced across the lake and the waves built in size before crashing against the shore we travelled. Wild winds whipped up thick clouds of mist, which fell as snow on the peaks. 

Even with a small pack I was tossed like a ragdoll as branches broke over head. Blown water soaked me through on any shore crossings and running was the only option on these stretches; granted only 150m jaunts at any time. Arrived at camp and set up tent up on the lake's north edge. Grey's glacier was just beyond the range's edge.

By 9:30am we met the trail's entrance up to the glacier. Quite honestly, after booking it the day prior, I would have been fine with a sleep-in. Wind and sun in any tent will wake you up. Plus, we were fueled on smoked salmon that we bought in Puerto Montt! Bought it 5 days earlier, prior to the NaviMag. Thank you vacuum sealer. For that matter, thank you to the refreshing vacuum cut of the 'FlowBee.'

Sorry. After a couple hours of, yes, random hiking thoughts we reached Greys Glacier. It could be seen from so very far away. From its first vista, all the way at the southern end of the lake, where we first spotted icebergs, the glacier looked impressive. It was. It never ceased being impressive. 'For such a long time.' That is all I could think. For such a long time this Mammoth

has broken apart and crushed the landscape into its current form. Yet, after all it has scribed, it still remains so present and impressive. Who am I to say if it's melting expediently. It chiseled it's surrounding environment. Certainly we agree, neither happened shortly. Perhaps it is supposed to melt in its current path. But again I don't have a clue. I didn't have a clue when I approached this striking, etched blue. Layers upon settled layers of freeze. I sat on the opposite edge of the lake it melted for. 

Sitting at its edge was simple. The rock was often cut in square wedges, making perfect ledges and seats. Across the moraine bay was Grey. It was a steady squeak of shifting glacier. A groaning roar of uncertainty. As I said, it was impressive. 

The sky was overcast with clouds by the time we reached the glacier. Nonetheless, each crack of light through a cloud flashed brilliance. Sun on ice, deep ice, makes for special viewing. 

After an hour at its edge the wind approached. Knowing the distance back and the food in my bag, 4 day old honey on bun and chocolate, I put on my wind breaker and made a move. Well two: Bundy & High-Kick.

That evening was a celebratory shower, soup, pasta and full bottle of red wine. What up? Our hike out the following morning was a steep up hill followed by a  long, very long, highland prairie. Lasted for 4 straight hours. Toby had sore traps. We saw a horse carcass. Pretty bizarre. 

Four days. Three nights. Many wind swept steps. Humbled. Reflective. 

A link to a selection of my pictures.

Puerto Montt

Spent a day in Puerto Montt (PM) before embarking on the journey south. PM is port town of 110,000 where sea life is the only life. The city horseshoes the coast and sits in the shadow of a giant Cross, which is said to bless all the passing ships.  Calloused hands repair boat hulls and untangle nets on the shore. The fish market starts to buzz in the early morning. Skiffs run supplies to the stationed crews and tugs ferry large takers from port. Bars solicit patronage of landed sea crew with names like 'Salon Lady Night' & 'Bar-Rest Pasiones.' 

We watched as the city got drunk by noon. 

I figured it was the appropriate town to shoot a whiskey and shave the beard. Kept the moustache though. Its pretty sweet, in a foul way, and starting to curl up at the edges. Figured with first impression being so important that I had to sport it for the boat ride south, down into Ushuaia and for Buenos Aires. 

Pictures of PM:

http://picasaweb.google.com/sbbrady/ChilePuertoMontt?feat=directlink

Navimag through Patgonia

Arrived in Puerto Natales earlier today after 4 days aboard the Navimag's Puerto Eden cargo-slash-passenger ship. It was only my second time spending an extended period of time aboard a ship. Such a great way to travel. The scenery through the Chilean fiords is very cool. For the most part the channel is about 200m wide, but on a number of occassions it got fairly skinny: 80m through the English Channel. Kind of resembles the northen B.C. coastline.

The inner channel is hemmed in by rolling hills covered in soft wood. As you get further south the hills grow into glacier capped mountains. Definitely scoped some skiable lines. At times, the glacier run off would hits the sea and create a rip line on the suface of the channel, a moraine torquise churned into the cold blue. During the evening of our 2nd night, we navigated through broken ice. Couldn´t really call them icebergs, but definitely large floating icecubes. They´d make a decent ´clang-k´off the ship´s hull. No damage done.

After two days threading the fiords, we made a 12-hr jaunt into the open. Reached the Pacific just before sunset. Watched the sun fall into the ocean´s horizon. Surprised how quickly it set. That particular night the swells were only about 3m - compared to 9m on rough days - but nonetheless, the boat was rolling and swaying actively. Made for a light sleep up on the single mattress top bunk.

As for wildlife, saw a few dolphins swim along the ships bow, a number of sea otters chilling on their backs (random side: did you know otters crap clouds of white...?) and lots of native birds.

Heading into Torres del Paine National Park tomorrow. Have rented a tent and sleeping bag. Will spend the next 3 nights and 4 days hiking what they call the ´W.´Will see the famous Torres del Paine (3 Towers) and surrounding glaciers. Its Puma season. I´ve been given advice not to run if I spot one. We´ll see if I can remember that.

Pictures from Navimag.

http://picasaweb.google.com/sbbrady/ChileNavimag?feat=directlink

south

i'm heading south today.

going for a last day of skiing up at Termas de Chillan. Sky still clear and the sun is shining. no new snow over the past couple of days, but its still soft and easy to find good lines. 

after skiing i'll be embarking on what will a long journey south. ultimately, i want to make it all the way down to Tierra del Fuego and to Ushuaia (world's southern most city). It will involve a 12 hour night bus from Chillan to Puerto Montt. I'll have the day to check out the sleepy port town before boarding a cargo ship called the NaviMag.  The ship leaves Puerto Montt on Friday afternoon and makes its way through the inlet fiords of Patagonia before heading out into the open waters for a couple of days and ultimately docking at Puerto Natales in Tierra del Fuego. The NaviMag is a cargo liner that got smart to the fact that tourists want to make their way south, but without paying a huge Carnival type cruiser fee. They have a few classes, but there is no mistaking you are on a boat with livestock & grain. I'll be bunking in a CC class room for a couple hundred dollars; not bad for 3 days/nights, meals and transportation.

The real journey will begin in Puerto Natales. If you take a look on a map there certainly is no direct route to Ushuaia. We've checked out a few options, but aren't entirely sure the buses that we want to take even run during the winter months. Hoping there is a bus from Puerto Natales to Puerto Arenas. Then hoping to catch a ferry from Areans to Porvenir. From Porvenir we'll have to find a bus down to Ushuaia. 

The skiing down there is supposed to be fun. Further south means quality cold dry snow, but also lower altitude glade skiing. 

More to follow, but may be a few days before I poach any wifi.

Have a look at the map. Its pretty far south and fairly remote.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ab/Chile.estrechodemagallanes.png

bluebird

Yesterday was a bluebird. Today too. 

I've been waiting for this weather for the past week. Fired up its here. 

(Allman Brothers: Blue Sky)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FIw7wa1QJs&feature=related

A big storm hit central Chile over the weekend. Fierce winds. Lots of rain. Howling weather. It was all a bit disconcerting to be honest. 

I returned to Las Trancas (Termas de Chillan) from Pucon. The forecasts had been calling for the storm to hit Fri-Sunday. We figured if the temperature could stay at -2 Celsius then any precipitation would hit the mountain as light snow. I spent most of Sunday in the lodge as rain hammered the village. Hard not to get a bit discouraged that the mountain - only 1,000m further up - was washing out. Even if it wasn't raining up there, I couldn't help but think it was getting caked in a wet layer that the wind would quickly turn into a slick face of ice.

By 6pm, as the sun was setting and village getting dark, the rain turned to hail. Later into snow. For the first time in the past couple of weeks it was snowing in the village. It had snowed up at the top of the mountain a bunch, but never in town. Spirits were turning.

I woke early. Bright, sunny & blue sky. Perfect day to rip a hill on skis. Only one way to find out how the mountain faired. I hitched a ride to the lifts - 8km up a winding dirt road. There were 6 of us all crammed into the back of a Toyota pickup. 

Just after 9am I was on the lift. The sky still blue and not a trace of wind. The mountain had got a fresh 8' of snow over night. Giddy up. Today would be a good day. 

Ripped fresh lines all day. 9am to 4pm. 

The only downside was, in typical non-rushed Chilean fashion, the top peak double chair didn't open until 3pm. It took them the entire day to de-ice the chairs. Thus, we had to hike & traverse a quick 10 minutes to get peak to creek runs. Not really an issue. All part of the ski day.